A visit to Matera, the beautiful “Shame of Italy” in the southern region of Basilicata, is an unbelievable experience. It gives you an opportunity to see what it was like to live in caves that were dug into the side of a mountain. Life with no electricity or running water, when farm animals lived in the same quarters as their masters as a way of staying warm in the winter.
Then – you get to return to a spectacularly stunning setting with all of the luxuries of the modern world. And when I say spectacularly stunning, I mean it is fit to serve as a movie set and in fact, it has been the set for several movies including – “The Passion of the Christ” and James Bond “No Time to Die”.
Getting There
We traveled to Matera via train from Bari, which is less than 50 miles away in the Puglia region and has the nearest airport. Although Matera is in Basilicata, it is often included in itineraries for visits to the Puglia region which receives more tourists than Basilicata.
The train ride took about an hour, was very scenic and, in my opinion, is the best way to reach Matera. You will not need a car while in Matera and finding a parking space may prove problematic. The train station is a short 15 minute walk to the heart of Matera.
The route to the center of Matera is very steep and cobbled, which I enjoyed because I’m a bit of a masochist and I viewed it as an opportunity to earn some delicious calories during my stay.
If you aren’t a masochist and don’t feel the need to earn your holiday treats, there are taxis at the train station that can take you to your hotel in town—a choice Betty wish we had made.
Let’s Go!
While Matera may have once been known as the Shame of Italy, today it’s known as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, movie set and in 2019 it was selected (along with Plovdiv, Bulgaria) as a co-European Capital of Culture. Thirty years ago no one would have thought about spending their holiday in Matera, but today it is bustling with tourist activity. It’s not as crowded as some of the better known tourist destinations in Italy, but take heed – the crowds are growing.
Exploring the Sassi
Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario: A reconstructed cave dwelling that offers insights into the traditional way of life in Matera.
A visit to Matera is never complete until you have visited the Sassi. The Sassi di Matera are ancient cave dwellings carved into the limestone cliffs. This area is divided into two districts: Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano.
In the 1950’s, Italian officials were shocked to learn that thousands of people (approximately 15,000) were living in the Sassi, all without electricity or running water. Oftentimes livestock were brought into the living quarters to provide heat during cold winter nights. Upon visiting the Sassi, it is fascinating to think how people survived in such harsh conditions.
Historic Churches
Matera is home to numerous historic churches, many of which are carved into the rock. Some must-visit churches include:\
: The city’s cathedral, located at the highest point of the Sassi, offering breathtaking views of the surroundings.The Cathedral is a stunning example of Apulian Romanesque style and was built in the 13th century. The Cathedral is dedicated to Madonna della Bruna and Saint Eustace. We were fortunate to witness a festival honoring Saint Eustace.
Santa Maria de Idris
A rock-hewn church situated on a rocky spur, known for its unique architecture and stunning interior. It’s an incredible feeling to look at this church and to marvel at how difficult it must have been to carve it into the rock.
The church is built into a rock complex that also includes the crypt of San Giovanni in Monterrone. The church is connected to the crypt by a tunnel with frescoes that date from the 12th to 17th centuries.
Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista
An exquisite church dating back to the 13th century, it serves as a magnificent example of Apulian Romanesque architecture, showcasing intricate stone carvings and a stunning façade that attracts visitors from all over the world.
This architectural gem, with its grand vaulted ceilings and beautifully adorned interiors, not only stands as a testament to the artistry of its time but also plays a significant role in the cultural heritage of the region.
Additionally, this historic church became a notable filming location for the James Bond movie “No Time to Die,” where it provided a dramatic backdrop that enhanced the film’s visual storytelling, further solidifying its status as a cherished landmark in cinematic history.
Ancient Water Supply
Another very interesting location is the Palombaro Lungo, which is an ancient underground cistern located beneath Piazza Vittorio Veneto. This remarkable structure, with its intricate network of tunnels and chambers, served as the main water source for the city for centuries, reflecting the ingenuity of past civilizations. It was not until the advent of the Apulian Aqueduct in the 1930s that the city’s reliance on this subterranean reservoir diminished, thereby marking a significant transition in the city’s water supply system. Today, the Palombaro Lungo stands as a fascinating testament to historical engineering, drawing visitors who are eager to explore its cool, shadowy depths and imagine the vital role it once played in sustaining the community.
The Palombaro Lungo was then closed and abandoned until it was discovered during the construction of the Piazza Vittorio Venoto in 1991. At 14 meters deep and 50 meters long, the cistern had a water capacity of over 5 million liters. Today you can tour the facility and explore its impressive engineering for 3 Euros.
Local Cuisine
Matera’s culinary scene is a delightful blend of traditional flavors and local ingredients. Must-try dishes include:
Pane di Matera
A unique bread made from local durum wheat, known for its distinctive shape and flavor, is not only a culinary delight but also a reflection of the region’s rich agricultural heritage. The blend of durum wheat provides a hearty texture that pairs beautifully with a variety of toppings, making it a versatile choice for any meal.
Its unique shape often draws attention at the dining table, inviting those around to share stories and experiences linked to traditional baking methods that have been passed down through generations. The bread’s flavor, with its nutty undertones, enhances the experience of enjoying it fresh out of the oven, often complemented by artisanal cheeses or homemade spreads, thereby creating a truly memorable gastronomic experience.
Crapiata
A hearty stew made with various legumes and grains, traditionally prepared during harvest festivals, not only warms the body but also brings communities together in celebration. This nourishing dish often features seasonal vegetables, fragrant herbs, and spices that enhance its rich flavor.
Families gather to share their favorite recipes, passing down treasured traditions through generations, while the aroma of the simmering stew fills the air, evoking memories of joyful gatherings and bountiful harvests. As everyone enjoys the robust and satisfying meal, it serves as a reminder of the importance of togetherness and gratitude for the earth’s plentiful offerings.
Pignata
A slow-cooked lamb dish with tender potatoes, sweet onions, and fragrant herbs, cooked to perfection in a traditional clay pot. The slow cooking process allows the flavors to meld beautifully, resulting in a rich and savory sauce that envelops the succulent lamb.
As the dish simmers, the potatoes absorb the aromatic broth, becoming creamy and soft, while the onions caramelize, adding a natural sweetness that balances the dish. Served alongside crusty bread or over a bed of fluffy rice, this comforting meal is perfect for family gatherings or cozy evenings at home.
Tips for Travelers
Wear Comfortable Shoes: Exploring Matera involves a lot of walking, often on uneven surfaces, with lots of hills. Comfortable shoes are a must.
Plan for the Weather: Summers can be hot, and winters chilly. Check the weather forecast and pack accordingly.
Guided Tours: Consider joining a guided tour to fully appreciate the historical and cultural significance of the Sassi and other landmarks.
Final Thoughts
Matera is a city that seamlessly blends ancient history with modern charm. Its unique cave dwellings, historic churches, and rich cultural heritage make it an unforgettable destination. Whether you’re exploring the Sassi, savoring local cuisine, or simply soaking in the stunning views, Matera promises an enchanting travel experience.
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