Explore Plovdiv, Bulgaria, and Rila Monastery. Discover if these day trips deserve more time during your stay in Sofia.
While spending the week in Sofia, we took day trips with the travel company Traventuria (traventuria.bg) to Plovdiv and the Rila Monastery. The trip to Plovdiv cost 35€ and the trip to the monastery cost 30€. Even though Bulgaria doesn’t officially use the Euro (yet), these trips were priced in Euro. The Rila Monastery trip included a stop at the Boyana Church which is just a few kilometers away from the center of Sofia. Both trips started with a two hour bus ride to their destinations. We met our guides and caught the bus right next to the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral at 8:00 a.m. for both excursions. The trip to Plovdiv included a ten minute “comfort stop” along the way.
Both guides provided a wealth of information about Bulgaria, Sofia and our destinations on those days. They were both very knowledgable and passionate about their home country and happily answered any and all questions about the people, history and culture of Bulgaria.
PLOVDIV
Plovdiv’s history stretches back over 6,000 years and it is possibly the oldest city in Europe. It is the 2nd largest city and the cultural capital of Bulgaria. In 2019, it was chosen as the European capital of culture. It features a maze of cobblestoned streets in its captivating old-town – word of warning – although the cobblestones in Plovdiv’s old-town are delightfully charming, they would pose a daunting challenge to anyone with mobility issues or pushing a stroller.
We strolled uphill and entered the old-town through the formidable Hisar Kappa Gate which was built in the 2nd Century A.D. Immediately next to the gate is the Street of Crafts which features local artists offering their works for sale.
We were in Bulgaria in late March and couldn’t notice that many of the trees had red and white braids tied to their limbs. Our guide explained to us that these are called Martenitsas and are a symbol of spring in Bulgaria. On the 1st of March Bulgarians exchange Martenitsas with friends and family. They wear the Martenitsas like a bracelet until they see the first sign of spring that year – either a stork, a swallow or a blooming tree. At this point the person will make a wish and either tie their Martenitsa to the tree branch or will put it under a stone.
We think that time is best spent in Plovdiv’s old-town by aimlessly wandering through its labyrinth of cobblestoned streets and alleyways. Some key points of interest that you will come upon are:
The Regional Ethnographic Museum was built in 1847 and originally served as the residence of a prosperous merchant. The house features a beautiful garden and has been described as a prime example of Plovdiv’s mid-19th century baroque architecture. It was established as a museum in 1938.
The bright orange Historical Museum is located in a beautiful former merchants house and features furniture and objects from the Renaissance period. The exterior ensures that it is definitely a building that you won’t miss.
The St Constantine and Helena Church sits on a site that has been used for worship since 337 A.D. The current building was built in 1832 during the rule of the Ottomans. The church features a beautiful interior, but is not very imposing on the outside. During the rule of the Muslim Ottomans, the christian Bulgarians were not allowed to build a church that was taller than an “Ottoman on a Horse”. Since the collapse of the Ottoman Empire, the church has been enlarged and the bell tower has been added.
It may seem odd, but Plovdiv’s “old-town” is not where you will find the oldest structures in the city. As you head down the hill on the other side of the old-town you will come to the 6,000 seat ancient Roman theater of Philippopolis. This theatre was constructed in the 1st century AD during the reign of Domitian. The theater features impressive acoustics and is still used for concerts today by well known artists. In 2019 Sting performed a concert in this beautifully preserved theater.
Continuing from the theater you will reach the neighbourhood of Kapana which is also called the “Mousetrap” due to its maze of narrow, winding streets that captivate visitors and draw them into this charming area much like a mouse into a trap. Kapana is known as the creative district of Plovdiv where traditional craft shops and modern art studios co-exist harmoniously. It also features some of the city’s best restaurants that offer traditional Bulgarian food with a modern twist. The vibrant street art and colourful murals add character to every corner of this neighbourhood.
Just outside of Kapana, you will find the ancient stadium of Phiipopolis (yes same name as the theatre) which was built in the 2nd century AD under the direction of Emperor Hadrian. The stadium was 50 meters wide and 240 meters long and had a capacity of 30,000 spectators. The stadium ruins expand throughout the pedestrian shopping street. The H&M clothing store is just one location where you can pay to see the ruins underneath the store.
Plovdiv’s main pedestrian area is almost 2 KM long, making it one of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe. It is lined on both sides with rows of colourful buildings, each with unique architectural details and decorative facades. The street is dotted with cozy cafes, trendy bistros and taverns. It is home to shops and art galleries showcasing local crafted goods. Nestled amid the vibrant ambiance are historical landmarks and architecture gems including ancient ruins and Ottoman era buildings. It is a dynamic and lively destination where culture, cuisine and creativity converge.
Plovdiv is a fascinating place that features a beautiful balance of ancient sites spanning multiple eras of history and a trendy, modern youthful vibrance that energises the city. Our only regret is that we didn’t stay longer. When we visit Bulgaria again, we will definitely stay in Plovdiv for at least two nights.
Boyana Church
Enroute to the Rila Monastery, we made a short stop at the UNESCO listed world heritage site Boyana Church which is located just a few miles from the center of Sofia. The church actually consists of three parts. The oldest section of Boyana Church was built in the 10th century. In the 13th century the church was enlarged by Sebastocrator Kaloyan who added a two storey section and finally the third building was added on to the other two in the 19th century.
The frescoes in the second building, painted in 1259, make it one of the most important collections of medieval paintings in the world. The Boyana church is not very big, but it is one of the most complete and perfectly preserved monuments of east European medieval art.
The church is very small. It costs 10 Bulgarian Lev (approximately $5 U.S.) to enter and only ten people are allowed to be inside at one time. Visits are limited to ten minute intervals and photography is not allowed inside. However, the impressive interior is worth the cost and inconvenience.
Rila Monastery
Back on the bus, it took about 2 hours to reach the Rila Monastery which is located in a stunning setting in the Rila Mountains about 117 KM (73 miles) south of Sofia. This would be a nice drive from Sofia if you are interested in renting a car and visiting the monastery on your own. One small problem with this option is that parking was very limited at the monastery. It’s also possible to reach the monastery with public transportation from Sofia.
The monastery, founded in the 10th century by St. John of Rila, originated as a small retreat and evolved into a significant centre for spirituality and community in medieval Bulgaria. Destroyed by fire in the early 19th century, the complex underwent reconstruction from 1834 to 1862. Representing a significant aspect of the Bulgarian Renaissance (18th–19th centuries), this monument signifies the revival of a Slavic cultural identity after centuries of occupation by the Ottoman Empire. The monastery was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983 due to its more than 1,000 years of history and its impressive architectural and natural beauty.
Upon walking through the gate into the monastery compound you are immediately blown away by the beauty of the area, both the natural setting and the man-made structures of the monastery. As the background noise of modern life is replaced by flowing fountains, singing birds, ringing bells and raging rivers you can feel the stress leaving your body. We visited on a spectacularly sunny day in late March and the snow covered Rila Mountains were simply breathtaking. It’s difficult to describe just how beautiful the entire location is, from the architecture to the artwork (interior and exterior) to the mountains – you need to take some time just to appreciate the wonders of this place.
The interior of the church is stunning. From the artwork, the collection of relics and treasures to the religious ceremonies that may seem a bit mysterious to those unfamiliar with the practices of Orthodox Christianity. Believers and non-believers alike will get the sense of being in a truly spiritual place.
One of the original towers from the 4th century that survived the 19th century fire still stands. You can climb halfway up the tower for 5 Bulgarian Lev. We opted not to climb the tower as we were told that from the half-way vantage point the view is less than spectacular. At the base of the tower there is a stand selling souvenirs from the monastery.
There is also a history museum which costs 8 BGN to enter. As we were pressed for time and wanted to fully take advantage of the glorious early Spring weather, we did not visit the museum. With more time available, we would likely check out the museum.
There are two public restroom facilities within the monastery compound. The first one you encounter is on your left almost immediately upon walking through the gate from the parking lot. This one is very primitive and we recommend going to the other one which is about 100 meters away. Simply turn right after entering the grounds and start walking, the restroom will be on your right shortly before you reach the adjoining wall. Be sure to look for WC signs for both restroom facilities.
If hunger strikes, follow the path outside the monastery gates. Cross the bridge opposite the tour bus drop-off and spot a quirky little shack with folks lining up. Join the queue for a taste of Bulgaria’s pride – the Mekitsa, a scrumptious fried pastry. Grab one for 1 BGN and jazz it up with cheese, honey, jam, or powdered sugar for a small extra fee. We’ve tried both the savoury and sweet kinds and give them a double thumbs-up! There is also a stand selling something that looked like donut holes and two restaurants. One of the restaurants was closed when we visited, we were told that the restaurants close for the winter and were just preparing to re-open for the tourist season.
Outside of the monastery grounds there are numerous hiking trails in the surrounding Rila Monastery Nature Park. Possible destinations include St. Ivan’s cave and final resting spot. During warmer months (June – September) the 6.2 mile Seven Rila Lakes Hike seems like a fantastic way to spend an afternoon. Traventuria offers guided hikes of Seven Rila Lakes for 30€ per person.
For a full monastic experience, it is possible to spend the night in one of the dormitory rooms at the monastery. For a private room with en-suite bathroom it costs: 1 person 30 BGN, 2 people 50 BGN, 3 people 60 BGN per room per night. A Private room with a shared bathroom costs 20 BGN per person per night. For an even more austere evening, you can stay in a shared dormitory, prices are not currently listed for this option. (rilamonastery.info to see lodging options). There are also other guest houses and over-night options available in the area.
The Rila Monastery is a must visit location if you are spending time in Bulgaria and it is another place that would make for a great day-trip destination from Sofia by car. If you are interested in hiking the Seven Rila Lakes trail and visiting the monastery an over-night trip would be a good option. If you only want to visit the monastery, a guided day trip provides enough time to appreciate this beautiful location.
Please do not hesitate to reach out with any questions you may have or just to say hello! Your presence and engagement mean a great deal to us.
Sit back, relax, and enjoy our YouTube video showcasing our trip below!
Happy Travels!
Betty and Lee
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