Burg Eltz – 850 years of history with one family
On our recent travels through Germany’s scenic Rhine Valley, we found ourselves captivated by the charm of Cochem and the medieval splendor of Burg Eltz. Nestled amidst rolling vineyards along the banks of the Moselle River, these destinations offer a delightful blend of history, nature, and culture that made our visit unforgettable.
A colorful morning in Cochem
While a car is not strictly necessary, it certainly makes getting around easier. You can reach Cochem from Frankfurt am Main Airport by train in about 2 hours and 15 minutes with one transfer, or in about 1.5 hours by car. From Frankfurt Hahn Airport, which is served by Ryanair and other low-cost airlines, the drive is about 44 minutes, or around 2 hours via a combination of buses and regional trains. This would be a great opportunity to utilize Germany’s amazing 49-Euro train ticket*—for 49 Euros per month, you can travel on as many forms of public transportation as you need, with the exception of high-speed inter-city express trains.
*The 49-Euro ticket for German trains is a subscription plan that automatically renews every month. Be sure to cancel your subscription, or you will continue to be charged.
Morning: Arrival in Cochem
Looking across the Moselle River to Reichburgs Castle
Our day began in the picturesque town of Cochem, one of the most enchanting spots along the Moselle River. As we approached, the town revealed itself with its colorful half-timbered houses, quaint streets, and the imposing Reichsburg Castle perched high above. The sight was like stepping into a fairy tale.
Cochem Market Square and the fountain of St. George the dragon slayer
Cochem is not just about its postcard-perfect looks; it’s also rich in history. We started our exploration with a leisurely stroll through the Old Town (Altstadt), where narrow cobblestone streets are lined with charming shops, cafes, and historic buildings. The Marktplatz, with its beautiful fountain and bustling atmosphere, was the perfect place to soak in the town’s lively vibe.
A lovely house in Cochem
After exploring the town, we made our way up to Reichsburg Castle. The walk itself, although a bit steep, offers stunning views of the river and vineyards below. The castle, originally built in the 11th century and restored in the 19th century, boasts a fascinating history and some truly breathtaking views from its ramparts. A guided tour provided us with a deeper understanding of its storied past, including its destruction by French King Louis XIV and its subsequent restoration by a wealthy Berlin businessman, who was required to restore the castle to its original exterior appearance with no guidance other than an engraved copper plate from the 15th century. The guided tour lasted about 40 minutes and in 2024 cost €8.50 for adults and €4.50 for kids 6-17 years old. In 2025 prices are expected to be €10 and €5.
Above and below – interior views of the Reichsburg Castle
After descending from the castle, we enthusiastically participated in the German tradition of afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (Coffee and Cake) at one of the wonderful cafes in the city center, which fueled us up for our drive to Burg Eltz.
One of our favorite German traditions – coffee and cake – here a Schwarzwaldkirschtorte or Black Forest Cake
Afternoon: A Scenic Drive to Burg Eltz
After a delightful morning in Cochem, we set off for Burg Eltz, one of Germany’s most iconic castles. Before the Euro became the common currency of Europe, Burg Eltz was featured on the 500 Deutsche Mark bill. The drive from Cochem to Burg Eltz is about 30 minutes, and the journey itself is a treat, winding through scenic countryside and dense forests. For those who enjoy a good hike, there’s also a well-marked 5 KM long trail from Moselkern that leads to the castle, offering a more adventurous way to reach this hidden gem. There are several benches along the trail to the castle, making it a great spot for a picnic. You can reach Moselkern from Cochem in about 15 minutes by train.
Our plan was to grab a late lunch at the castle restaurant. Unfortunately, by the time we arrived at around 3:00 p.m., the restaurant was closed. We’ve eaten here before, and the food was tasty, inexpensive, and quick, but the limited hours seem to be a holdover from the days of COVID-19. Fortunately, we had some trail mix to tide us over until dinner back in Cochem.
Above – one of the many beautiful views of Burg Eltz; Below – Timeline of Burg Eltz
Burg Eltz is truly a sight to behold. Tucked away in a lush valley and surrounded by dense woodland, the castle looks like it’s straight out of a fantasy novel. Travel writer and TV personality Rick Steves calls this his favorite castle in all of Europe. What makes Burg Eltz particularly special is that it has remained in the same family for over 850 years, and it’s one of the few castles in Europe that was never destroyed. As we approached, the castle’s towers and turrets seemed to rise magically from the forest.
Medieval Kitchen in Burg Eltz
In 2024 the castle is open from 24 March to 1 November, from 9:30 a.m. until 5:00 p.m. daily. Entrance to the inner courtyard, treasury and a guided tour of the castle cost €14 for adults and €7 for children. The guided tour took us through rooms filled with original furnishings, ornate wood carvings, and stunning tapestries, all of which paint a vivid picture of medieval life. The armory and treasury rooms, with their collection of weapons, armor, and valuable artifacts, were particularly fascinating. Our guide shared intriguing stories about the castle’s history and its role in the region’s defense, which added so much depth to our visit.
Interior view of Burg Eltz
*A note on interior photography: We received conflicting guidance from the staff on whether photography is permitted inside the castle. Since we couldn’t find anything in writing regarding the policy, we decided to take a few snapshots as inconspicuously as possible.
Before heading back, we took some time to explore the walking trails around Burg Eltz. The paths offer stunning views of the castle from different angles, each more picturesque than the last. The peacefulness of the forest and the beauty of the surrounding nature made this part of the trip particularly memorable.
Evening: Return to Cochem and Reflections
Cochem at night
As the day drew to a close, we returned to Cochem, where we spent the evening relaxing by the Moselle River and capturing some photos of the castle above. The town takes on a magical quality at dusk, with the castle illuminated and reflections dancing on the water. We capped off our day with a glass of local Riesling at a riverside café, followed by a tasty dinner at the Akropolis Greek restaurant.
Final Thoughts
Entry to Burg Eltz
Our visit to Cochem and Burg Eltz was like stepping back in time, into a world of medieval knights, fairytale castles, and timeless landscapes. Whether you’re a history buff, a nature lover, or simply someone who appreciates the beauty of a well-preserved past, these destinations offer something truly special. If you find yourself in the Rhine Valley, a day trip to Cochem and Burg Eltz is an absolute must—it’s an experience that will stay with you long after you’ve left.
For more from our visit to Cochem and Burg Eltz, please see our YouTube on these two spectacular locations
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