Train delays courtesy of Deutsche Bahn (German Railways) caused us to arrive in Vienna several hours later than planned, dampening our hopes of enjoying our first cups of Glühwein (hot mulled wine) that evening. Not wanting to let the holiday cheer slip away completely, we decided to visit the Belvedere Palace, which was conveniently close to our hotel. Even though the market had already closed for the day, the palace lights created a magical scene. Their reflection in the pond added a special, serene touch to our first night in Vienna.
Belvedere Palace and the Rathaus (City Hall)
After a good night’s sleep, we were ready to dive into Vienna’s festive spirit. Our first stop: the Belvedere Palace, this time with the Christmas market open. The mood was joyous as we stepped into the bustling market. Children laughed as they rode the carousel, the air smelled of sweet and savory holiday treats, and the elegant backdrop of the palace made it all feel surreal.
We sipped our first Glühwein of the season while enjoying Kaiserschmarrn—shredded pancakes fried to perfection, topped with powdered sugar, and served with warm fruit compote. It was heavenly.
Vienna’s public transportation system makes getting around incredibly easy. With its efficient network of trams, the S-Bahn (light rail), and the U-Bahn (subway), exploring the city was a breeze. We used the WienMobil app to purchase a 24-hour ticket for just €8—a great deal for unlimited rides.
Next, we headed to the Rathaus (City Hall) and the aptly named Viennese Dream Christmas Market. The Rathaus, one of Vienna’s most stunning buildings, is the perfect backdrop for a holiday celebration. In the square, a massive Christmas tree brought from Austria’s forests stood tall, while the market featured a merry-go-round, a Ferris wheel, an ice-skating rink, and stalls offering warm drinks, handcrafted goods, and festive treats. It truly felt like stepping into a Christmas dream.
Maria-Theresien-Platz and Karlsplatz
From the Rathaus, we strolled to Maria-Theresien-Platz, passing by the majestic Austrian Parliament building along the way. This beautiful square, framed by the identical façades of the Natural History Museum and the Art History Museum, hosts yet another spectacular Christmas market. At the center is the grand Maria Theresa Memorial, which adds a touch of imperial history to the festive setting.
The sunny, albeit chilly, weather made the market a bit crowded, but the lively atmosphere more than made up for it. After taking in the sights and sounds, we continued to Karlsplatz (Charles Square) and its stunning St. Charles Church. This market had a more local vibe, with vendors carefully vetted to ensure their products are sourced locally.
Karlsplatz was a hit, especially for families. The petting zoo, playground of straw, and fun, human-powered rides were a delight for children. The relaxed, authentic atmosphere set it apart from the busier tourist-heavy markets.
Schönbrunn Palace and Nighttime Magic
That evening, we decided to visit Schönbrunn Palace, a little outside the city center but easily accessible via the U-Bahn. Initially unsure if it was worth the trip, we were thrilled we made the effort. The illuminated palace was breathtaking, and the market here became our favorite in Vienna.
We indulged in a savory potato raclette, where warm, melted raclette cheese is scraped over a baked potato, and a Käsekrainer—a grilled sausage stuffed with cheese, served in a crusty roll. Both were absolutely delicious and among the best treats we had in Vienna.
Returning to the Rathaus market that night, we discovered a new level of magic. The illuminated Wiener Christkindlmarkt sign, the glowing Christmas tree, and the sparkling lights in the park transformed the entire area into a winter wonderland. A nighttime visit here is a must for anyone in Vienna during the holidays.
St. Stephen’s Cathedral and the Spittelberg Market
Our final day began at Stephansplatz, home to the awe-inspiring St. Stephen’s Cathedral, a Gothic masterpiece over 800 years old. Despite the cloudy weather, we enjoyed a hearty bowl of goulash soup served in a bread bowl, followed by a sweet chimney cake—a perfect pairing for the blustery conditions.
Walking through Vienna’s pedestrian zone, the holiday decorations on Graben street were a highlight. The giant chandeliers suspended above the street sparkled like stars, adding to the festive charm.
We ended our Viennese adventure at the Spittelberg Christmas Market, a cozy, less touristy market tucked away in a local neighborhood. Despite the rain, the cheerful atmosphere and delicious food made it a memorable stop. Here, we devoured crispy Erdäpfel Puffers (potato pancakes) and flavorful wild boar sausages with cheese—a surprising and delightful treat.
Vienna: A Holiday Wonderland
Vienna during Christmas is an unforgettable experience. From grand palaces glowing with festive lights to charming markets filled with delicious treats and handcrafted gifts, the city exudes holiday magic at every turn.
If you’re planning a European trip during the holidays, Vienna deserves a top spot on your itinerary. With its mix of history, culture, and festive cheer, it’s a destination that truly captures the spirit of Christmas.
For a closer look at this enchanting city, don’t forget to check out our YouTube video capturing all the highlights of our trip. 🎄✨
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