Traveling Expats

Welcome to Colmar, a charming town in the Alsace region of France, known for its fairytale-like streets, colorful half-timbered houses, and rich history. Join us as we explore the best that Colmar has to offer, from its vibrant markets to its serene canals.

Arrival and Getting Around

Colmar is conveniently accessible by train from Paris in about 2 hours and 20 minutes. Here are the nearest airports and their distances to Colmar:

• Basel: 55 km
• Strasbourg: 55 km
• Karlsruhe/Baden Baden: 94 km
• Zurich: 114 km
• Stuttgart: 151 km

Transportation can be easily arranged from Basel and Strasbourg, but we recommend renting a car. While you won’t need a car within Colmar itself, it’s the best way to visit nearby villages on the Route du Vin (Alsace Wine Route). Driving in Alsace is straightforward, but it’s wise to review French driving rules and European traffic signs if you’re unfamiliar with them. An International Driver’s License, translated into French, is also recommended. Americans should brush up on kilometers-to-miles conversions (e.g., 100 km = 60 miles).

For visits to Strasbourg, consider taking the train. Trains run twice an hour between Colmar and Strasbourg, with a journey time of about 30 minutes each way. Parking in Strasbourg can be challenging, so driving might not be the best option.

Exploring the City

While we often opt for “free” walking tours when visiting a new city, the only tours in Colmar didn’t start until 2:30 PM, so we chose to explore on our own.

Self-Guided Walking Tour of the Historic Core

The historic core of Colmar is compact and easily navigable on foot. The Tourist Information Office, located across from the impressive Unterlinden Museum, is a great place to pick up a city map and learn about current events.

The best way to enjoy Colmar is to wander through the streets and alleys of the old city. The streets are like a living museum, with pastel-colored half-timbered houses. Start at Place de l’Ancienne Douane, where you can admire the iconic Koïfhus (Old Custom House). The square features a beautiful fountain with a statue sculpted by Frédéric Bartholdi, the creator of the Statue of Liberty. There’s also a museum dedicated to him in his birth house.

Little Venice

The gem of Colmar is the Little Venice district. Here, you can admire timber-framed houses along the banks of the Lauch River and feel as if you’ve stepped into a fairytale. Originally inhabited by wine producers, market gardeners, and boatmen, this is the heart of ancient Colmar. The different colored houses were used to identify the professions of the occupants in former times. Don’t miss taking a boat ride in Little Venice which cost 8 Euro per person.

Fishmonger’s District

The fishmonger’s district is where most of Colmar’s professional fishermen and boatmen lived. They formed a powerful union and controlled the waters of Colmar. Fish were stored in fish ponds and sold in this district.

Saint Martin’s Church

Built between 1235 and 1365, Saint Martin’s Church is a great example of Gothic architecture in Alsace. The church has undergone several restorations. During the most recent restoration in 1982, foundations of a church from the year 1000 and traces of extensions from the 11th and 12th centuries were found. Colmar residents considered the Saint Martin’s collegiate church as their cathedral for about ten years, from the Civil Constitution of the Clergy (1790) to the Concordat of 1801.

House of Heads

Built in 1609, the House of Heads is a fine example of German Renaissance architecture. It owes its name to the 106 heads that decorate its façade. The gable of the building is decorated with volutes and a statue of a cooper, sculpted in 1902 by Auguste Bartholdi.

Covered Market Hall

When you’re ready for a snack, the famous Covered Market Hall offers many local delicacies. Built in 1865, it features around twenty merchants selling delicious local products such as fruits, vegetables, meat, cheese, baked goods, and fish. Enjoy your purchases there or take them for a picnic.

Pfister House

The Pfister House, built in 1537, became a symbol of old Colmar. It features a nice wine shop on the ground floor selling delicious Alsatian wines.

Carved onto the outside of the building next door to the Pfister house is a man, representing a drape maker, who is holding a measuring stick that represents Colmar’s standard length of measurement. In the middle-ages, units of measure weren’t standardized from place-to-place. When merchants arrived in a new location, they had to determine what the locals used for measurements before they started trading their goods.

Unterlinden Museum

The one museum you must visit in Colmar is the Unterlinden Museum, located in a former 13th-century convent. The museum features the famous Isenheim Altarpiece, created between 1512 and 1516. Entrance is €13 for adults, and children under 12 are free. The museum is closed on Tuesdays.

Food and Drink

In addition to the Market Hall, two must-try places in Colmar are Les Bateliers and La Fleur de Sel.

La Fleur de Sel

Located in a beautiful half-timbered building with outdoor seating along the water, La Fleur de Sel serves typical Alsatian dishes. The tarte flambée (known as flammkuchen in Germany) is the best we’ve ever had. For lunch, we enjoyed three types of tarte flambée, dessert, coffee, and a bottle of wine for just over €80.

Les Bateliers

Les Bateliers is in a beautiful location on the water. Popular with locals and tourists alike. They don’t take reservations, so guests start lining up 30 minutes before opening (6:30 PM). We tried their famous choucroute (sauerkraut with five meats), tarte flambée, and the most spectacular jarret de jambon (pork shank) I’ve ever had. We also enjoyed a bottle of Riesling from Wolfsberger winery in nearby Eguisheim, dessert, and an Alsatian coffee. All of this for less than €120.

_{The Little Venice district at night with the highly recommended Les Bateler}

Conclusion

Colmar is a beautiful city that feels like a village in its old town center. The colorful timber-framed houses, charming canal, and beautiful churches and museums will make you feel as if you are in a fantasy world. Easily reachable from Paris, Lyon, or Stuttgart, Colmar is an ideal place to relax and enjoy a few days in the heart of Alsace.

To learn more about the beauty and culinary delights of Colmar, be sure to check out our YouTube video – Colmar France’s Fairytale City. Thanks for Watching!